Tuesday, April 11, 2006

No shame in backing off

Saturday: Mikl and I went to Mt Piddington in the Blueies. It was cold, I jumped on Taurus, a trad "16" (5-8) near the walk down track. It was in the shade. The gear is tricky on this climb, and after placing a few mediocre pieces I got scared of taking out a just too small cam to replace with something better, and headed up through the crox to what i thought would be a better placement. Then I realized that I didn't have a ny hexex and my number 4 friend I wasn't happy with. So with frozen hands/fingers/arms I came down and sent Mikl up to get my gear. Then I climbed a 17 to redeem myself (5-8+).

In the glorious afternoon sun we headed out for a photo shoot of "Hotel California" with our friend climbing photographer Simon Carter. The sky couldn't have been bluer and the light was just magical, but we all could have done without the roaring wind. We rapped in two pitches and Mikl led the third last pitch, a few times, for the camera. I led the second last pitch just as the sun was setting (no great photos there I think) and we walked out in twilight. Aside from getting out ropes snagged in the horrible wind a few times, it was a very magical climb.

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